Suede VS Nubuck. Origin, Characteristics, Maintenance

The confusion is understandable. To the untrained eye, they might seem like twins. But for the artisans at Pelle Nuda Milano, suede and nubuck tell profoundly different stories. Let's discover together the subtle differences that make these materials unique in the world of Italian leather goods of excellence.

Two Velvets of the Skin: The Eternal Dilemma

“Is it suede or nubuck?” If you’ve ever asked this question in a quality leather goods store, you’ve probably noticed that light in the salesperson’s eyes – a mix of excitement (at being able to share his passion) and mild concern (at having to explain the differences that to him are as obvious as day).

Both materials share that seductive velvety surface that invites you to touch, both represent the excellence of Italian craftsmanship, both improve with time developing a unique character. And yet, they are profoundly different in their essence, origin and behavior.

Let's dive into the heart of the Italian leather tradition to discover what lies behind these two undisputed protagonists of tactile luxury.

Suede: The Reversed Leather That Has Conquered Generations

Suede, also known as "chamois" or "camoscio" in English, is perhaps the most familiar to the general public. Its distinguishing feature? It is literally the inside of the leather that is brought to the outside.

How suede is born

The process of creating suede is fascinating in its apparent simplicity:

We start from a skin (typically bovine for luxury accessories)
The skin is divided horizontally into two layers
The lower layer is worked with a mechanical abrasion process that creates the characteristic velvety surface.
Specific dyeing and hydration treatments follow

The result is an incredibly soft material, with a uniform surface reminiscent of velvet, characterised by short, dense fibres.

Suede is like jazz in music, it has a relaxed, soft soul that adapts to your fingerprints and tells your story. It is a material that invites you to touch it, almost seduces you.

Distinctive features of suede

Quality suede has some peculiarities that make it immediately recognisable to the expert touch:

Uniform surface : the fibres are short and regular
Directional effect : by passing your hand in opposite directions, the surface changes appearance and color
Extremely soft : it folds easily and is extremely pleasant to the touch
Absorbency : It is more susceptible to stains, especially water and oil stains.

The beauty of suede lies in its versatility and its ability to add a touch of casual luxury to any accessory. It is ideal for those who love relaxed yet sophisticated elegance.

Nubuck: the noble velvet that defies time

Nubuck is the refined brother of suede. The main difference? Nubuck is not the inner part of the leather, but the outer part, the most valuable surface, specially processed.

The process of creating nubuck

The birth of nubuck is a process that requires artisanal skill and the highest quality starting materials:

A top quality leather is selected (generally bovine for luxury accessories)
The outer surface (the "grain" of the leather) is subjected to a delicate sanding process
This abrasion is much lighter than that of suede.
The result is a surface that maintains the characteristics of full grain leather but with a velvety appearance.

Nubuck is like a good glass of Barolo, it requires an educated palate to fully appreciate its nuances, but once discovered, it is difficult to go back.

Distinctive features of nubuck

Quality nubuck has peculiarities that make it a particularly valuable material:

Less uniform surface : maintains the natural characteristics of the original leather
Shorter and more compact fibre : the velvety effect is thinner and more refined
Greater resistance : being the external part of the skin, it is naturally more robust
Natural imperfections : small scars or marks that tell the story of the animal's life are considered assets, not defects.
Unique patina : develops an inimitable lived-in look over time

Nubuck is the ideal choice for those looking for a material that expresses luxury and character, but with superior durability compared to traditional suede.

The Tactile Test: How to Tell Them Apart at First Touch

If you find yourself in a quality leather goods shop and want to make a good impression on the clerk, here are some tips for distinguishing nubuck from suede by touch:

Gently run your fingers over the surface : the nubuck will offer slightly more resistance.
Observe the density of the fibres : nubuck has shorter and more compact fibres.
Look at it against the light : nubuck tends to show more natural variations than leather.
Try the directional effect : both change appearance when you pass your hand over them, but the suede one more markedly.

"The best way to tell them apart? Close your eyes and touch them," our artisans advise. "Your fingers will be able to tell the difference before your mind can even analyze it."

Care and maintenance: different approaches for different materials

The differences between suede and nubuck are also reflected in the care and maintenance methods needed to preserve their beauty.

Caring for Suede

Suede requires special care:

Prevention : the use of specific protective sprays is strongly recommended
Regular cleaning : a rubber-bristled brush or a suede-specific brush is essential
Water stains : let dry naturally and then brush gently
Revive the color : there are specific products that nourish and revive suede

Caring for Nubuck

Nubuck, although more resistant, has specific needs:

Preventive protection : as for suede, but with specific products for nubuck
Gentle cleaning : a softer brush than the suede one
Periodic hydration : specific products that nourish without weighing down
Natural patina : unlike suede, nubuck can develop a patina that should be enhanced, not fought.

The difference in care is subtle but fundamental, it's like the difference between caring for two plants that look similar but have different needs: one requires more water, the other more light.

Which to choose: a question of style and practicality

The choice between suede and nubuck depends on your lifestyle, your aesthetic preferences and the intended use of the accessory.

Choose suede if:

Love a softer, smoother look
Use the accessory primarily in controlled environments
Are you willing to dedicate time to maintenance?
You prefer a more casual and relaxed look

Choose nubuck if:

Enjoy a more durable surface with subtle elegance
You want a material that develops a unique patina over time
Find a balance between elegance and practicality
You prefer a more sophisticated and distinctive look

"There is no absolute best choice," says the owner of Pelle Nuda Milano. "There is only the best choice for you, for your style, for your life. It's like choosing between two excellent wines: it depends on your palate and the occasion."

Italian craftsmanship: where difference becomes excellence

What makes both Italian nubuck and suede truly special is the artisanal tradition behind their workmanship. Italy has a centuries-old history of leatherwork, with techniques passed down from generation to generation and constantly refined.

In Italian tanneries, the cradle of leather excellence, the processing of suede and nubuck still follows almost sacred rituals, where modern technology bows before the experience of the craftsman.

"The difference between an Italian nubuck and one produced industrially elsewhere is like the difference between a dish prepared by grandma and the same dish frozen," our artisans tell us. "The ingredients may seem the same, but the result is a completely different experience."

Sustainability: A Contemporary Concern

In the age of environmental awareness, it is important to emphasize that both quality suede and nubuck can be produced sustainably.

At Pelle Nuda Milano, we only use leather from tanneries certified for respect for the environment and animal welfare. Our leather is a by-product of the food industry, which means that no animal is raised specifically for its leather.

Furthermore, the intrinsic durability of these materials, especially when worked according to tradition, makes them naturally sustainable: a quality nubuck or suede accessory can last for decades, drastically reducing the ecological footprint compared to "fast fashion" products.

Conclusion: two sides of the same excellence

Suede and nubuck represent two different interpretations of the same artisan passion. Two materials that, while appearing similar to the untrained eye, tell different stories and offer unique experiences.

The next time you find yourself choosing between a suede and a nubuck accessory, remember that you are not simply choosing a material, but a tactile experience, a tradition of craftsmanship, a piece of Italian history.

At Pelle Nuda Milano, we celebrate both of these extraordinary materials, working them with the same respect, the same passion, the same dedication to excellence that characterizes each of our creations.

Whether you choose the soft, seductive jazz of suede or the sophisticated Barolo of nubuck, you are carrying a piece of Italy's unrivaled artisanal heritage with you.

Pelle Nuda Milano: where tradition meets innovation, where every detail tells a story, where excellence is not a goal, but a starting point.

Suede VS Nubuck. The Journey into Italian Craftsmanship